Annapurna Base Camp.

1. Pokhara822 mJeep into the hills, about 3–4 hours
2. Ghandruk1,940 m

Pokhara to Ghandruk

We leave Pokhara after breakfast and drive up into the hills, arriving in Ghandruk in time for lunch in the village. Ghandruk is one of the largest Gurung settlements in the region: stone houses, slate roofs and terraced fields, with Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machapuchare above. The afternoon is for the Gurung museum and a slow walk through the lanes, then a fire in the evening.

shower

Hot showers at the teahouse (gas or solar).

food

Full menu, including non-veg.

access

Road access. Jeep evacuation is possible from here.

1. Ghandruk1,940 mClimb through forest to the ridge, 1–1.5 h
2. Kimrong Danda2,250 mLong descent to the river, about 1 h
3. Kimrong Khola1,780 mThe first real climb, 2–2.5 h
4. Chhomrong2,170 m

Ghandruk to Chhomrong

A steady climb out of Ghandruk to the ridge at Kimrong Danda, where Annapurna South and Machapuchare suddenly feel close. Then down to the Kimrong Khola river for lunch, and the first real climb of the trek up the other side to Chhomrong, the gateway to the Annapurna Sanctuary.

shower

Hot showers available.

food

Chhomrong is the last reliable stop for non-veg food on the way up. Enjoy it here.

safety

Rescue point. Helicopter evacuation possible from Chhomrong.

1. Chhomrong2,170 mDown the long stone staircase, over the river and up again, 2–2.5 h
2. Sinuwa2,360 mOver Kuldi Ghar into bamboo forest, about 1.5 h
3. Bamboo2,310 mGentle climb along the Modi Khola, about 1 h
4. Dovan2,600 m

Chhomrong to Dovan

The famous stone staircase drops from Chhomrong to the river, then climbs to Sinuwa. From here the trail enters dense rhododendron and bamboo forest along the Modi Khola. Lunch at Bamboo, then an easy hour to Dovan for the night.

shower

Hot showers available.

food

Menus get simpler from here. Mostly vegetarian, with dal bhat, noodles, pasta and momos.

safety

Rescue point. Helicopter evacuation possible from Dovan.

1. Dovan2,600 mForest trail past a small riverside shrine, 1.5–2 h
2. Himalaya2,920 mOut of the trees into the open valley, about 2 h
3. Deurali3,230 m

Dovan to Deurali

A shorter day on purpose, to help your body adjust to the height. Beyond Himalaya the forest thins, waterfalls pour off Machapuchare across the valley, and the trail climbs into open country. The valley narrows and the trees run out by the time we reach Deurali.

sanctuary

From Himalaya onwards you are in the sacred Annapurna Sanctuary. No meat is served or carried past this point.

shower

Hot shower usually available, but evenings are cold. Many trekkers skip it from here up.

safety

Rescue point. Helicopter evacuation possible from Deurali.

1. Deurali3,230 mEarly start through the avalanche zone, 2–2.5 h
2. MBC3,700 mOpen moraine below Annapurna I, 1.5–2 h
3. ABC4,130 m

Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp

An early start. The trail follows the river below steep slopes that can shed snow, so we cross this stretch early and keep moving, on the guide's call. At Machapuchare Base Camp the whole sanctuary opens up. The last climb to Annapurna Base Camp crosses open ground with Annapurna I (8,091 m) straight ahead. Tonight we sleep at 4,130 m with mountains on every side.

altitude

Highest night of the trek. Walk slowly, drink plenty of water, and tell your guide about any headache or nausea.

shower

No showers at MBC or ABC. Wet wipes and warm layers.

safety

Helicopters can land at both MBC and ABC.

1. ABC4,130 mAfter sunrise and breakfast, 1–1.5 h
2. MBC3,700 mAbout 1.5 h
3. Deurali3,230 mAbout 1 h
4. Himalaya2,920 m1–1.5 h
5. Dovan2,600 m

Base Camp to Dovan

Up before dawn for sunrise on the Annapurnas: Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machapuchare turning gold one after another. After breakfast, the long way down, back through MBC, Deurali and Himalaya. Most of the height we gained comes off in one day, so trekking poles make a real difference on the knees.

shower

Hot showers again at Dovan.

sanctuary

Vegetarian until we leave the sanctuary below Himalaya.

1. Dovan2,600 mAbout 1 h
2. Bamboo2,310 mClimb over Kuldi Ghar, 1.5–2 h
3. Sinuwa2,360 mThe stone staircase one last time, 1.5–2 h
4. Chhomrong2,170 mSteep descent through the village, 1–1.5 h
5. Jhinu1,780 m

Dovan to Jhinu

Back through the bamboo forest, over to Sinuwa, and down and up the stone staircase to Chhomrong one last time. Then down to Jhinu, where natural hot springs sit beside the river a short walk below the village. Earned.

shower

Natural hot springs by the river (a small fee may apply), plus hot showers at the teahouse.

food

Non-veg is back on the menu.

1. Jhinu1,780 mJeep back down to the lake, about 3–4 hours
2. Pokhara822 m

Jhinu to Pokhara

A slow morning, then the jeep back to Pokhara. Out of the mountains and back to the lake, with the evening free in Lakeside.

shower

Hotel shower in Pokhara.